A Festive Balinese Centerpiece Bursting with Aromatic Spice and Crispy Skin

Babi Guling is the crown jewel of Balinese cuisine—traditionally a whole roasted pig stuffed and rubbed with a bold, aromatic bumbu bali spice paste. Often reserved for ceremonies and temple offerings, this dish is rich, fiery, and layered with lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, and shrimp paste. While the original requires a rotisserie and a whole suckling pig, this version adapts beautifully to pork shoulder or belly, so you can recreate the same explosive flavor for your table at home.

Ingredients

Serves 6–8

For the pork

• 1.5–2kg pork belly or shoulder, skin-on (3.3–4.4 lbs)
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1 tbsp lime juice
• 2 tbsp neutral oil

For the bumbu bali (spice paste)

• 6 shallots
• 5 cloves garlic
• 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only
• 2 tbsp galangal, peeled and chopped
• 2 tbsp ginger
• 1 tbsp fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp ground turmeric)
• 2 red chilies, chopped
• 1 tsp shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted
• 1 tsp black peppercorns
• 1 tbsp palm sugar
• 1 tsp salt

To finish & roast

• 2 kaffir lime leaves
• 2 extra lemongrass stalks, bruised
• Banana leaf or foil for wrapping (optional)

Instructions

Start by preparing the bumbu bali: Blend all ingredients into a rough paste, adding a splash of oil if needed. Sauté over medium heat until fragrant, reduced, and golden—about 8–10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Prepare the pork: Score the skin (if using belly), then rub with salt and lime juice. Pat dry. Butterfly the pork shoulder or belly and rub half the spice paste inside, spreading evenly.

Roll the pork and tie it with butcher’s twine. Rub the remaining spice paste over the exterior, especially under the skin. Insert bruised lemongrass stalks and lime leaves into the center or cavity if using a shoulder roast.

Place the pork on a roasting rack. Roast at 160°C (320°F) for 2.5–3 hours, basting with oil occasionally.

To crisp the skin, increase the oven to 220°C (425°F) for the final 15–20 minutes, watching carefully to avoid burning.

Rest the roast for 15 minutes before carving into generous slices. Serve with steamed rice, lawar (Balinese spiced veggies), or spicy sambal matah.

Cooking Tips

Use skin-on pork belly for crackling and juicy layers. If you can’t find galangal or turmeric fresh, powdered forms work—but halve the amount. Toasting your shrimp paste and coriander seeds deepens the flavor, so don’t skip it. Wrapping in banana leaf during the first part of roasting (if available) adds fragrance and helps retain moisture. The bumbu paste can be made a day ahead for even deeper flavor.